안녕하세요 오픈크리에이터즈 공장장 입니다.
후처리 방법에 대해 해외에 재미난 게시물이 올라와서 퍼왔습니다.
저같은 경우는 후처리에 크게 미련이 없어서 그냥저냥 출력을 했는데 회원님들은 어떠실지 모르겠네요 ㅎㅎ
먼저 기존에 후처리 했던 방법으로는
- 아세톤을 붓으로 표면에 발라주어 표면을 광택있고 반들반들하게 하는 하는 방법
- 조형물을 아세톤 용액에 잠깐(3초 정도)넣었다 빼는 방법
- 아세톤 분부기로 조형물 표면에 도포해준다.
대표적으로 이렇게 세가지가 있었구요.
이 외국 아저씨가 하는 방법은요.
1. 유리병 안에 아세톤을 3~4mm정도 밑에 채운다
2. heatedbed를 가열시키고(100도 이상) 기위에 유리병을 놓는다.
3.조형물을 알미늄포일위에 넣고 아세톤 용액과 닿지 않게 해준다.
4. 표면이 처리가 되면 꺼내고 건조를 시킨다.
동영상 보시고 따라해 보셔도 될 듯 합니다.
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Vapor Treating ABS RP parts
https://youtu.be/Xj53P2YzYGM
Treating ABS parts with acetone is almost as old as RepRap itself, but usually this has involved either dipping the part into liquid acetone, which causes white streaks in the parts, or brushing the acetone onto the part with a slurry mix, which can work very well but tends to be a messy process.
I have seen several setups out there, one by the Solidoodle Folks that involved a deep fryer, ice, tubing, and a candy thermometer, or completely passive systems that just used unheated acetone like TBuser of Makerbot did.
Unforgettably I am a horrible mixture of cheap and impatient, so I had to figure out a way to do this for little or no money out of pocket. To do this process you will need your RepRap's Heated Build Plate (must be able to reach 110C), a Glass Jar, Some Aluminum Foil, and a hanger to bend into a hook to get the parts out with.
First place your glass jar on the heated build plate and put a liberal amount of Acetone into the bottom of the jar (3-4mm deep). Initially you need to ramp up to 120C, especially if you have a heavy jar. As the jar comes up to temp you will see the meniscus from the edge of the vapor cloud slowly creeping up the jar. Once the vapor is to the top of the jar, turn the plate back down to 90C for the treatment.
Place your sheet of aluminum on your table, and your part on the sheet. Lower the object into the vapor bath (very carefully, you don't want it falling off). Leave the object in the acetone until you are happy with the amount of smoothing (the object continues to smooth out over the next few hours).
Once the parts are in process you can not touch them at all, the easiest way we have found to get the parts in and out of the jar is to fold aluminum foil into a make shift table and use another smaller sheet of aluminum to act as a base for the part. You can fish the parts out of the jar using a wire coat hanger bent into a make shift flat hook.
When done, carefully remove the object from the bath. If you're done processing put a lid on the jar loosely and as the vapor cools it will condence back into liquid to be stored in your acetone jar again. Allow the part to sit for another ten minutes, the surface will be very squishy while the residual acetone dries off.
After some concerns were brought up regarding Acetone Vapor on heated surfaces in the home we decided to make the following video for reference:
https://youtu.be/ZJWhfpWlGFg
This was done at Fablocker in NC, USA. By Austin Wilson and Neil Underwood (Spacexula).
출처:http://blog.reprap.org/2013/02/vapor-treating-abs-rp-parts.html
2차출처:http://cafe.naver.com/makerfac/2283
기존에 후처리 했던 방법으로는
- 아세톤을 붓으로 표면에 발라주어 표면을 광택있고 반들반들하게 하는 하는 방법
- 조형물을 아세톤 용액에 잠깐(3초 정도)넣었다 빼는 방법
- 아세톤 분부기로 조형물 표면에 도포해준다.
재밌네요. 에디슨 시연회에서 그냥 가능하지않을까 물어봤습니다만... 실제로 이렇게 후가공이 가능합니다;;
안녕하세요 오픈크리에이터즈 공장장 입니다.
후처리 방법에 대해 해외에 재미난 게시물이 올라와서 퍼왔습니다.
저같은 경우는 후처리에 크게 미련이 없어서 그냥저냥 출력을 했는데 회원님들은 어떠실지 모르겠네요 ㅎㅎ
먼저 기존에 후처리 했던 방법으로는
대표적으로 이렇게 세가지가 있었구요.
이 외국 아저씨가 하는 방법은요.
1. 유리병 안에 아세톤을 3~4mm정도 밑에 채운다
2. heatedbed를 가열시키고(100도 이상) 기위에 유리병을 놓는다.
3.조형물을 알미늄포일위에 넣고 아세톤 용액과 닿지 않게 해준다.
4. 표면이 처리가 되면 꺼내고 건조를 시킨다.
동영상 보시고 따라해 보셔도 될 듯 합니다.
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Vapor Treating ABS RP parts
https://youtu.be/Xj53P2YzYGM
Treating ABS parts with acetone is almost as old as RepRap itself, but usually this has involved either dipping the part into liquid acetone, which causes white streaks in the parts, or brushing the acetone onto the part with a slurry mix, which can work very well but tends to be a messy process.
I have seen several setups out there, one by the Solidoodle Folks that involved a deep fryer, ice, tubing, and a candy thermometer, or completely passive systems that just used unheated acetone like TBuser of Makerbot did.
Unforgettably I am a horrible mixture of cheap and impatient, so I had to figure out a way to do this for little or no money out of pocket. To do this process you will need your RepRap's Heated Build Plate (must be able to reach 110C), a Glass Jar, Some Aluminum Foil, and a hanger to bend into a hook to get the parts out with.
First place your glass jar on the heated build plate and put a liberal amount of Acetone into the bottom of the jar (3-4mm deep). Initially you need to ramp up to 120C, especially if you have a heavy jar. As the jar comes up to temp you will see the meniscus from the edge of the vapor cloud slowly creeping up the jar. Once the vapor is to the top of the jar, turn the plate back down to 90C for the treatment.
Place your sheet of aluminum on your table, and your part on the sheet. Lower the object into the vapor bath (very carefully, you don't want it falling off). Leave the object in the acetone until you are happy with the amount of smoothing (the object continues to smooth out over the next few hours).
Once the parts are in process you can not touch them at all, the easiest way we have found to get the parts in and out of the jar is to fold aluminum foil into a make shift table and use another smaller sheet of aluminum to act as a base for the part. You can fish the parts out of the jar using a wire coat hanger bent into a make shift flat hook.
When done, carefully remove the object from the bath. If you're done processing put a lid on the jar loosely and as the vapor cools it will condence back into liquid to be stored in your acetone jar again. Allow the part to sit for another ten minutes, the surface will be very squishy while the residual acetone dries off.
After some concerns were brought up regarding Acetone Vapor on heated surfaces in the home we decided to make the following video for reference:
https://youtu.be/ZJWhfpWlGFg
This was done at Fablocker in NC, USA. By Austin Wilson and Neil Underwood (Spacexula).
출처:http://blog.reprap.org/2013/02/vapor-treating-abs-rp-parts.html
2차출처:http://cafe.naver.com/makerfac/2283
기존에 후처리 했던 방법으로는
재밌네요. 에디슨 시연회에서 그냥 가능하지않을까 물어봤습니다만... 실제로 이렇게 후가공이 가능합니다;;